Guerilla Cafe

23 May

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Guerilla Cafe is a restaurant that explicitly features high end coffee, utilizing professional techniques to put out quality products that are on par with many third-wave establishments. Though they are mostly a restaurant and only partly cafe, it is easy to see how coffee is an integral part of the shop’s image. It is nice to see more and more restaurants sourcing good coffee and training their staff well. Guerilla Cafe definitely cares about the product.

One way that I could see their commitment to quality was through their partnership with Blue Bottle. There is a small sign advertising Blue Bottle Coffee right in front of the store. Whether this is a stipulation of contract or their choice, it definitely drew me in. At the register, they sell retail bags and add their own Guerilla stamp. It is nice to see a little shop that has a close partnership with a good roaster; too many big bakeries and restaurants have enough money to buy “the best” equipment and beans but lack a knowledgeable, skilled, or thoroughly trained staff to meet high expectations.

I really liked the location away from the busier parts of Berkeley. It is on the north end of Shattuck past campus and downtown right near a nice residential area. Guerilla has an artsy vibe that is really personal and “neighborhood.”

The people at Guerilla are well trained. I forgot to ask, but more likely than not, they were trained by Blue Bottle (many shops send their baristas to the roaster for training). At any rate, the employees at Guerilla were very professional about coffee. Our barista was friendly, almost “too” laid back, thought this style meshed well with the “neighborhood” vibe.

The cap itself reflected Guerilla’s commitment to quality. The espresso flavor was excellent, I would not expect less from Blue Bottle. It was drinkable right away and the even temperature meant a well stratified milk. Tasty and well “mixed,” the fleeting espresso flavor made for a lighter, milky cap. It was a little bigger than I am used to (around 10 oz) , but I would venture to say it was at a level that rivaled many specialty coffee shops.

I like seeing restaurants that don’t just have coffee “in addition” to their food but instead showcase it right alongside their confections. With a good partnership and training, Guerilla delivers good coffee and could stand alone as just a coffee shop.

I liked:

  • The clear commitment to their partnership with Blue Bottle
  • The little Linea
  • Atmosphere and “neighborhood” feel
1620 Shattuck Ave
(between Lincoln St & Cedar St)
Berkeley, CA 94709
Neighborhoods: Gourmet Ghetto, North Berkeley

(510) 845-2233

Sweet Maria’s

23 May

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While Sweet Maria’s is not a coffee shop perse, their influence over the local coffee scene, the industry, Bay Area coffee culture, and the amateur home roaster is beyond noteworthy. Many of my friends travel to see Tom and Maria for all their brewing supplies, green coffee, and most importantly, coffee wisdom. They carry everything from brewing apparatuses to home and commercial roasting equipment. Oh, and some of the best green coffee on the market! These guys are veterans of the coffee world, the exporting and importing of beans, sourcing farming and milling, and the owners of many fine antique roasters!

After learning a lot about espresso, brewing, equipment, and the “art” of baristaing over the last few years, I kind of hit a wall. I am a bit frantic when it comes to learning; it is not uncommon for me to be reading three different books at a time (not literally of course). Since I have learned what I can on bar for now, I have been getting more and more into beans, sourcing, and roasting. What better way to start than home roasting? Everyone pointed me to Sweet Maria’s.

The location of Sweet Maria’s may be my single small complaint. It was a bit difficult to navigate the streets under the freeway and I kept getting turned around by  ”one way’s.” SM is literally a warehouse in a warehouse district and let’s just say, it is not in the most ideal neighborhood. Suffice to say, this should not deter you from making a trip to their incredible facility. The building itself is pretty neat. They have lots of hand crafted signage, displays, and the gateway entrance is a gorgeous piece of metal work. Once you walk in, you know SM is “all business.” The the pylons are stacked with tons  of green coffee from all over the world. The various work stations strewn about the facility for bagging, organizing, and shipping are constantly manned by a professional team. Everything is designed (or seemingly not designed) for work and efficiency and nothing else. Most intruging is the unofficial “museum” of roasters in the office and on the upper level. There is everything from old Probats to early 1900s home-use drum roasters, a pretty amazing collection of coffee history.

Getting beans and set up with my new “roaster” was easy and enjoyable. The staff provided me with tons of resources to get me started. I was given a good variety pack of green beans at half price since I purchased a roaster. The woman who helped us out was very cordial and attentive to the fact I was somewhat  apprehensive about getting into the roasting biz; she gave me honest answers about using a popcorn popper as a home roaster, the limitations of the method, and the realistic advantages (both financially and practically) of what I was envisioning. I walked away with a new (thoroughly tested and recommended by SM) popcorn popper and a 4lb sampler bundle for $40, pretty good deal. I also walked away with a ton of information, resources, and confidence in how much they wanted to empower me to become an ametur roaster. They were there to support my new hobby, but they provided me with the means and know-how to do it professionally.

Besides quality green beans and good prices, SM has an incredible database for all things relating to home roasting, beans, sourcing, trade, and equipment. Best of all, it is an open resource to everyone. I highly encourage everyone to take a look at their library of information. Though I initially visited the site to watch their video demonstrations for my specific roaster, I have found myself reading their articles on a daily basis. Their website is amazing and unparalled in its honest explanation of roasting and beans. I really appreciate that they are very self critical of the products they carry and the “ideals” they present. It signifies their unabashed commitment to quality. SM is not out to “sell you” on coffee or strictly profit off its customers. Despite the fact they are located at the heart of coffee importation near the Oakland harbor, Sweet Maria’s is dedicated to serving the home roaster as a hobbiest and professional by offering high quality products and a plethora of accessable information at very low cost. These guys (especially Tom) are some of the best in the business with a huge amount of accolades (and street cred), but have no ego about their business. They aren’t out to be part of the latest trend, just out to do what they do well. Thanks Sweet Maria’s for helping me start my new hobby!

I liked:

  • The accessibility and endless amount of information
  • The “no frills” approach
  • Price
  • The “pat on the back” from professionals

1115 21st St
(between Adeline St & Chestnut St)
Oakland, CA 94607
Neighborhood: West Oakland

(888) 876-5917

http://www.sweetmarias.com

And sometimes… we take ourselves too seriously

9 May

Self explanatory. Have a good life and don’t take your passion too seriously. I found this great video that sums it up pretty nicely. Enjoy it, love it, and laugh at yourself every once in a while. I was listening to NPR the other day and heard a world class wine importer/seller talking about wine culture. At the end, he reminded the audience (and buyers of fine wine) something to the effect of, “at the end of the day, come on people, were talking about fermenting grape juice here.” I think the coffee industry is in a lot of ways like wine and I know we can get serious and snobby really quick. But, at the end of the day, were talking about pouring hot water over beans and playing with expensive machines to steam milk for soccer mom’s.

All credit goes to killingmylobster for making a great video.

Tasting with our Eyes (Kyle Abbot)

8 May

After burning my taste buds from that French Pressed bilge water, I wondered, “How on earth could this stuff pass a focus group?” It was clear to me that the contents were far from “Juicy” and certainly lightyears away from complex. How could anyone with a coffee-addled brain not fall for that?

However, as I thought about it, I realized how much adjectives really influence a consumers reaction to the product. Pick up any box of plain crackers and chances are, the product description on the back of the box will read, “Our *organic* wheat crackers are made with the *freshest* *naturally* grown wheat, raised in the organic sunlight. Our farmers’ environmentally friendly gluten-sucking extractor, er… “methods” offer you a *nutrient rich* source for nourishing your body and soul with a lightly salted, delightful crunch.”

A simpler version would simply say, “It’s Crackers. Only use orally.” I mean, you could really cut costs with all the ink you’d save! Nahhh… To me, the extra adjectives are needed as keywords with the purpose of resonating with positive feelings in the customer, automatically connecting that positive emotion to the product they are using/consuming. Though I’m aware of it, even I can’t help but notice the “crunch” more because of reading it on the box. Truly, I think the mind has a gigantic affect on how we view things, and can be influenced without knowing it.

The same is true for, yes… coffee! Back when we were getting into espresso with our moka pot and whirly grinder, we bought 2lb bags of coffee beans at Costco. Not just any coffee beans. Intensely Smokey, “Extra Bold” beans! (Meaning, burnt to a crisp) After getting that for a few months, I said to my dad, “Why don’t we try the Columbian or Rwandan coffee?” He, knowing as little as I did at the time, replied with, “No no. If we don’t like it, then we’re stuck with 2~3lbs of it. Let’s keep to these beans. See, read here. It said intensely smokey!” For someone who usually questions most of what he sees, he put an unusual amount of importance in those two words. “Papa” I said, “That has nothing to do with the actual taste of the product! They’re just… ‘feel good’ words.” “Yeah, but still…” Said he. He knew it, but I think he couldn’t help be influenced by the wording. He favors intense foods/drinks, so the wording really resonated with him in that.

Since then, we’ve moved on to other beans (without poetic descriptions) which has broadened our flavor perception. Though Papa always claims he can’t tell one batch from another, I think he’s already begun to distinguish different beans/grinds, especially without being swayed by the power of poetic keywords. Cashew mist, anyone?

 

 

Shop Specialties Disclaimer

6 May
Thanks to some positive feedback I received about this section, I wanna write a little disclaimer about why I omit certain things about my reviews of particular shop drinks
  • What’s in the drinks you are writing about?
I don’t talk about taste for a few reasons. I cannot get into specifics about ingredients and techniques regarding these drinks for a pretty basic reason: it is not my intellectual or business property to share. Someone put a lot of love and care into creating these drinks and I am not legally (or morally) able to give away secrets or recipes. Shops can showcase their unique specialties precisely because no one else is doing it. If everyone started doing it, it wouldn’t be special anymore, no?
  • All well and good, but can you tell me what it tastes like?
A big reason why I left the taste part out was I want people to go try it for themselves! I want to use this site to promote shops that put out outstanding drinks. I also want them to get increased business because of the hard work they put into these special drinks. So, I encourage people to go visit the store and taste it first hand. Some people of course won’t be able to travel to these stores, and while I do go into a little detail about the flavors, it definitely does not do the drink justice. Furthermore, coffee is something to be experienced, not really read about in a book (or a blog, what was I thinking?). Also, these article are meant to reflect the creative processes and the ideas of the baristas. Rather than focus on the drink itself, I am more concerned with showcasing the ingenuity behind the beverage. Too bad I can’t send out samples as you read. One day.
Enjoy, happy travels to these shops and I hope the experience gets your own creative juices flowing.

Terminology at its “best” follow-up: The Cupping

1 May

three out of four

After I wrote the article this morning, I got more and more interested in trying the Kenya from SB. Damn you SB, you got me, well played. We went in, hoping to be surprised, and to some degree we were. I cannot thank the staff at SB enough for being so hospitable. They did two completely fresh, full french presses of the Kenya and a “Willow” “blonde” roast for us, full service and ultra polite about the whole thing. Bodum presses, pre-heated glass, 3 minute immersion time, well ground and dosed, an ideal experiment! We went outside and cupped. Here were our notes:

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Kenya                                                         

Ryan:  Poo, ash

Luke:   Hard and old

Kyle:   Blanched Kale

Daniel:  Decomposing Wood

James:  Dirt and a log

Willow

Ryan: Mild berry

Luke: Floral

Kyle: *coffee*, decent with little expectations

Daniel: Bright (ish)

James: Flowers

General Consensus:

Kenya = smell and aftertaste was like moldy peanuts or left-over steamed vegetable water

Willow = passable flavor with hints of brightness

Alright, so obviously we are not fans of SB coffee, generally speaking. This is in no way an insult towards the staff who did a fantastic job, but more of a shot at the roasters. Massive batches, low quality control, over roasting, etc. Much love to my friends who work for Starbux.

What was fun about this adventure was all different tastes we each described. At the store, though I encourage people to use cupping notes as a guide, but I really push for people to make up their own opinions and ideas about what they are tasting. I am not great at describing specific flavors, so I usually just try to understand coffee in comparison to something simple; a fermented flavor, for instance, reminds me of the flavor and feeling of whiskey. While cupping these two coffees, everyone had their own opinion and a good time coming up with ideas. We all tasted something different, coffee is fickle. I guess this alludes to the useful/lessness of cupping notes for the average drinker. Some people don’t always have well developed plattes, and that shouldn’t discourage them from trying a wide variety of coffees. It is great to have your own opinion and it can be totally different from what you see on the label! Often times, it is.

Sentinel Cafe

30 Apr

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Nestled away in the new Cruzio/Sentinel building is a gem of a shop just asking to be discovered. While this modest operation is put on through the efforts of Cafe Delmarette and Verve, it can stand on its own as a benchmark in local coffee. Whether it is the quality of the ingredients in use or the superb training of the baristas, the Sentinel Cafe kiosk is putting out some high grade products.

I was originally turned on to this place because a friend of mine told me they used a Synesso, no small purchase or statement in the coffee world. After some digging, I found out my old boss and friend had sold them their 2 group Cyncra, identical to what we use at Companion. Such an amazing piece of espresso tech, I had to see how other stores used their machine. I tried to visit a few times and today it was finally open. My friend and I walked into the old Sentinel building and there was the small kiosk. It almost seemed like an “info desk” window. There on the counter was the Cyncra in all its metallic glory. Though the store itself was quite small, there was a ton of stuff crammed into the tiny space; a whole professional coffee operation no bigger than 50 square feet. The kiosk was not really designed for high volume with only a couple of tables in the half enterance-way/lobby and the single barista manning two windows. Luckily, the atmosphere is very low key and relaxing.

The eager barista greated us warmly. Patrick, the man behind the counter, is quite the coffee aficionado. We chatted with him about the machine, Cafe DelMarette, Verve, coffee methods, techniques, pre-infusion, whatever was on our mind he was happy to talk about. What’s more, Pat really understands what he is talking about. It is clear that he has full range over the operation at every level, which is always reassuring from a customer standpoint. This morning we got to try out the Sermon in a straightshot and a cap, which were both reasonably priced at $2 and $2.75. Chatty, well versed, polite, Patrick gave us the kind of personalized service that is rarely seen at high-volume shops and seldom achieved to the same degree by high-end shops that boast customer service. A bunch of dudes makin’ and appreciating coffee, that’s where it’s at.

Those who have read my other entries know I am not a huge fan of The Sermon. Then again, I am also a fan of wholesale stores that source Verve coffee because they generally do such a good job. This was one of the first times I really enjoyed The Sermon. As a straight espresso, it was vibrant, fruity, and extremely tastey while not being overwhelmingly intense. It was definitely the best straight shot of Verve Coffee I have had in a long time, maybe ever. Then I dove into my cap. The temperature was totally on point, ready to drink right away, it had a good amount of foam though just slightly wet, and the espresso to milk ration was phenomenal. Patrick did a great job portioning the espresso so that I was mostly tasting the heavy flavor of the Sermon without destroying the sweet balance of the milk mixing together, though he and I both admitted we error on the side of caution and pull slightly more espresso on most drinks to ensure people are not just tasting milk. The milk was extremely flavorful and while I usually describe the Sermon as chemically, this cap tasted more berry-like than others I have had that utilize this blend. As the drink cooled, the flavors evolved slightly and brought out more pronounced layers. It was an outstanding, well balanced drink.

My one gripe about this place is the strange location. If I had not been told exactly where to look, I would have missed it. I used to literally passed by this placetoo and from work  every day without ever knowing it existed. Its awkward placement at the entrance of the building does not lend itself to a “hang out” atmosphere. It is definitely a kiosk, not a “shop.” Although we spent quite a bit of time hanging out there, it felt a little uncomfortable at points.

Like many other Verve wholesalers, Sentinel Cafe has impressed immensely. It is a “hidden gem” here in Santa Cruz and while it is relatively unknown on the high-end coffee spectrum, that could quickly change  if they maintain this level of quality. In fact, in my opinion, they are one of the best spots in town, even when compared to the bigger shops. Great job guys, keep up the amazing work.

I liked:

  • The expert they put behind the counter
  • Price
  • The fact it seems like a “secret” and is not overly traveled
  • The solid espresso flavor that evolved as I drank
Sentinel Cafe Kiosk
(Inside) Cruzio Works Building
877 Cedar Street #150
Santa Cruz, CA 95060
(831) 459-6301
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