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The Verve Coffee Roasters 41st

18 Jul

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Verve and Santa Cruz can’t go together in the same sentence without the word “outstanding.” Whether this refers to their beans, drinks, facilities, or staff, Verve is one of the best coffee companies in California. There is no denying that. Their level of popularity and prestigue is seldom achieved by anyone. My individual experience and personal preferences with particularities aside, I have been a dedicated customer of their original location on 41st Ave since 2009. While I have been consistently impressed with the quality of my drinks from 41st, there are a handful of other things I feel somewhat more ambivalent about. They are one of the best in California, but not the best.

The roasters and most of the baristas at Verve, especially at 41st, care deeply about their company and strive for absolutely quality. The store is always immacualte, inviting, and homey. The bar lends itself as a wonderful showpiece and an efficient work station, allowing easy viewing of the entire process from almost anywhere within the shop. It is a sight to see baristas like Chris put forth such a high level of skill in every drink he serves. But Chris is not the only barista who is putting out coffee; the caliber of the staff at “the flagship store” is relatively equal. I’m glad they did not compromise on training for the sake of having a “celebrity” barista. That quality alone assures me that despite the award winning quality of their bean, I will always have a good drink that is properly prepared. Both are indicators of amazing quality.

That being said, I have never had a bad drink at this particular location, ever. I have had ones that felt slightly rushed in less than optimal circumstances, but they have all been of a high grade, from caps to cold coffee. Personally, there some items I am not a huge fan of, namely “the Sermon” espresso which tastes far too chemically, in my opinion. Sometimes, drinks or beans are good but comparable to other shops. But other than this, everything else is great to outstanding. “Street Level,” for instance, is solid no matter where I have it. The cold brew and brewed coffee at 41st has always been prepared with great methods to the highest standards. Drinks are always good, great, or oustanding.

Verve is, for better or for worse, the epitome of “cool.” They are good, and more times than one, I have been reminded of this ubiquitous fact. Their reputation within the industry and amongst coffee enthusiasts seems to concur; Verve is not only good coffee, it is “hip,” trendy coffee. Egos sometimes become a little overbearing and daunting during my visits. I will simply leave it at this: while confidence and pride are well deserved, there are many other shops that are capable of the same quality or better. There is more than one Sigma Cum Laud in coffee.

Verve 41st is without a doubt their best location, the heart of the operation, and where it all began. Despite my reservations about the image or the quality, I believe that Verve is one of the best coffee roasters in the state. I hope that as they expand and grow as a company, they reflect on and attempt to emulate what the 41st store firmly stands for; quality and consistency.

I liked:

  • Consistency
  • Street Level
  • Status as a roaster
  • Regular, experienced staff
Verve Coffee Roasters
 
816 41st Ave
Santa Cruz, CA 95062

(831) 475-7776

Companion Bakeshop’s 1st Year Anniversary

17 Jul

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Although Companion Bakers and the heart of the operation, owner Erin Lampel, have been putting out the finest breads and baked goods in the Santa Cruz area for several years, Companion’s formal storefront is only one year young. In that short span of time, Erin and partner Jeremy have radically transformed the old Beckman’s facility into a cozy, modest yet enchanting retail space featuring an impressive array of delectable treats and breads that draws customers from all over the region. Just to name a few of their worldly accomplishments, Companion has received honorable mentions from the Santa Cruz Good Time’s magazine as well as being prominently featured in Edible Monterrey Magazine. No small accomplishment for a veteran bakeshop, let alone one that is just beginning its fruitful journey. Actually, their unique style of baking, variable yet dependable bread selection, attested recipes and graciously jovial staff has some arguing that Companion is the best bakeshop in town.

Companion is more than a bakery, it is also the only good coffee shop on the west side. In fact, it is highly debatable that they are better than most shops in town. The combination of professional techniques, high quality coffee, and a passionate staff has certainly made Companion a notable coffee destination. This reputation and caliber  is not entirely the aim of the bakeshop. But one can’t complain; you are getting the best of everything under one welcoming roof.

While their unconventional ingredient combinations and unique spins on traditional favorites  may deter some (especially regarding sugar on the buckwheat scones and the density of their superb coffee cake), for most others, this eccentricity is why Companion is their daily spot. Where else will you find fresh baked quiche with kale, caraway, tomatoes, and bacon every morning? Or Fougasse bread with peaches and Gorgonzola? Or a goat milk cappuccino? Who will do all that and do it well? Companion.

This last month marked their first year anniversary as a formal retail shop. Everyone on staff put together a little celebration to express our gratitude and show how much we appreciate the support of our customers, friends, wholesale partners, and the comminity. Music was abound, fresh treats were plentiful, and baby goats were just waiting to be loved and played with. Some of the special items we featured were our dark chocolate sea salt, ginger, and coffee peanut butter cookies paired with goat milk ice creams such as caramel salt, coffee, and lavender honey. Other treats included special peach black tea, the Semolina loaf, and an assortment of breads with goat cheese and house made apricot preserves, all served by our dedicated baking staff. To add to our excitement, owner Jeremy and his band played amazing live bluegrass throughout the morning. “We are infatuated with goats,” he once said. Funny, but true. Who doesn’t like goats? Especially baby goats? Local farmers and friends of the shop brought some of their beautiful baby milk goats to add a special touch to our morning of celebration. Everyone enjoyed them, especially the staff.

Thank you to everyone at Companion Bakeshop for working so hard and blessing the community with such wonderful food and a warm environment. Your passion, ethnusiasim, and creativity are an inspiration to everyone who calls Companion their home. Jeremy and Erin have earnestly dedicated themselves to putting out the best products simply because they love it. This care is reflected in everything in the store. Their professional passion has brought together the most sterling group of bakers, bread makers, and baristas, individuals who are beyond talented in their own right, into an almost literal family. I congratulate you on the first of many successful years of business and prosperity. Cheers and Bonzai.

Coffee+Pastry Pairing with Companion Bakeshop, Part 2: Savory Pastries

9 Jul

The long awaited follow up article to our successful food+coffee pairing with Companion Bakeshop. This article is focused on savory pastries; ones that are not sweet but buttery, salty, hearty, among other things. Again, we are pairing these delicious goods with a cappuccino and coffee to see what kinds of wonderful flavor combinations we can find. Companion makes some of the best baked items in the Monterrey Bay area, so there was no better place to sit down, enjoy a coffee, and set to work eating delicious food for this article. Enjoy.

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The Daily Quiche/Fritada: While the creamy texture of the cap mixed very well with the fluffy texture of the eggs, the combination of espresso and vegetables was truly outstanding. The espresso actually seemed to enhance the flavors and underscored the nuances of the kale, for instance. I think what was most striking was the way it also brought out the spices in the dish, especially the fennel seeds. By contrast, the coffee actually detracted from the flavors of the quiche; it masked most of the subtitles with intensity while adding nothing to the texture. It’s only real advantage was that it toned down the buttery crust. Winner: Cap.

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“Salty Pig” Cheddar Bacon Biscuit: This was our only real toss up, both drinks did equally well. The buttery-ness of the buscuit combined with the coffee’s astringency was wonderful since it cut down the heft of the dough while accentuating the savory elements, especially the the bacon. The cap added an unexpected sweetness and a delightful thick body. Though potentially overwhelming, it was actually quite pleasant in small portions. Winner: Both.

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Bread Pudding: As delicious as savory bread pudding can be, this was a no-brainer for the food pairing. The coffee mellowed out the cheese and cream that oozes out of this delicious treat, thus making it relatively mild. The cap was far too rich to be paired well with just bread pudding alone…unless you like an oversaturation of dairy. Winner: Coffee

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Bread (rye): By far, the bread combination was the biggest surprise and delight of the day. Not only did it offer the most dynamic flavor combinations, it also felt the most “organic” pairing in some senses. Companion’s Rye is incredible and no doubt one of the best loaves you will get from a bakery in Santa Cruz. It is a hearty, solid, “go-to” selection. The Carroway seeds and cap milk was satisfying and mellow. The milk sits well with the heavy body and texture of the bread. I could see myself comfortably eating a few slices with a little butter and a cap every day. The coffee, on the other hand, diverged from “safe” and amazed us with complexity. The flavors from the Carroway and other seasonings were pleasantly accentuated. There was an incredible tapering zest after-flavor that literally lingered on the back of your tongue with each sip of coffee. Winner: Both

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Granola: This was just a small sampling of the granola itself, not a full bowl with any garnish or added dairy. This too was relatively straightforward. Of course, the cap won us over since the milk complimented the granonla. That little extra was essential. The black coffee drowned out the sweet flavor of the granola, becoming coffee with a texture. Winner: Cap.

Overall, we concluded that the sweet flavor of the cap paired well with everything. It added some elements that enhanced savory characteristics.

While some combinations could be considered mediocre, the cap never detracted from the food.  The coffee had the biggest range in flavors. We found that the coffee had some very intriguing combinations, the Rye+coffee pairing was definitely my favorite overall. However, the coffee also hindered the flavors of some of the more mellow items on the list. So, while coffee+savory item can be a more intriguing pairing, the cap won out overall as the more reliable option. Enjoy, happy eating.

Sentinel Cafe

30 Apr

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Nestled away in the new Cruzio/Sentinel building is a gem of a shop just asking to be discovered. While this modest operation is put on through the efforts of Cafe Delmarette and Verve, it can stand on its own as a benchmark in local coffee. Whether it is the quality of the ingredients in use or the superb training of the baristas, the Sentinel Cafe kiosk is putting out some high grade products.

I was originally turned on to this place because a friend of mine told me they used a Synesso, no small purchase or statement in the coffee world. After some digging, I found out my old boss and friend had sold them their 2 group Cyncra, identical to what we use at Companion. Such an amazing piece of espresso tech, I had to see how other stores used their machine. I tried to visit a few times and today it was finally open. My friend and I walked into the old Sentinel building and there was the small kiosk. It almost seemed like an “info desk” window. There on the counter was the Cyncra in all its metallic glory. Though the store itself was quite small, there was a ton of stuff crammed into the tiny space; a whole professional coffee operation no bigger than 50 square feet. The kiosk was not really designed for high volume with only a couple of tables in the half enterance-way/lobby and the single barista manning two windows. Luckily, the atmosphere is very low key and relaxing.

The eager barista greated us warmly. Patrick, the man behind the counter, is quite the coffee aficionado. We chatted with him about the machine, Cafe DelMarette, Verve, coffee methods, techniques, pre-infusion, whatever was on our mind he was happy to talk about. What’s more, Pat really understands what he is talking about. It is clear that he has full range over the operation at every level, which is always reassuring from a customer standpoint. This morning we got to try out the Sermon in a straightshot and a cap, which were both reasonably priced at $2 and $2.75. Chatty, well versed, polite, Patrick gave us the kind of personalized service that is rarely seen at high-volume shops and seldom achieved to the same degree by high-end shops that boast customer service. A bunch of dudes makin’ and appreciating coffee, that’s where it’s at.

Those who have read my other entries know I am not a huge fan of The Sermon. Then again, I am also a fan of wholesale stores that source Verve coffee because they generally do such a good job. This was one of the first times I really enjoyed The Sermon. As a straight espresso, it was vibrant, fruity, and extremely tastey while not being overwhelmingly intense. It was definitely the best straight shot of Verve Coffee I have had in a long time, maybe ever. Then I dove into my cap. The temperature was totally on point, ready to drink right away, it had a good amount of foam though just slightly wet, and the espresso to milk ration was phenomenal. Patrick did a great job portioning the espresso so that I was mostly tasting the heavy flavor of the Sermon without destroying the sweet balance of the milk mixing together, though he and I both admitted we error on the side of caution and pull slightly more espresso on most drinks to ensure people are not just tasting milk. The milk was extremely flavorful and while I usually describe the Sermon as chemically, this cap tasted more berry-like than others I have had that utilize this blend. As the drink cooled, the flavors evolved slightly and brought out more pronounced layers. It was an outstanding, well balanced drink.

My one gripe about this place is the strange location. If I had not been told exactly where to look, I would have missed it. I used to literally passed by this placetoo and from work  every day without ever knowing it existed. Its awkward placement at the entrance of the building does not lend itself to a “hang out” atmosphere. It is definitely a kiosk, not a “shop.” Although we spent quite a bit of time hanging out there, it felt a little uncomfortable at points.

Like many other Verve wholesalers, Sentinel Cafe has impressed immensely. It is a “hidden gem” here in Santa Cruz and while it is relatively unknown on the high-end coffee spectrum, that could quickly change  if they maintain this level of quality. In fact, in my opinion, they are one of the best spots in town, even when compared to the bigger shops. Great job guys, keep up the amazing work.

I liked:

  • The expert they put behind the counter
  • Price
  • The fact it seems like a “secret” and is not overly traveled
  • The solid espresso flavor that evolved as I drank
Sentinel Cafe Kiosk
(Inside) Cruzio Works Building
877 Cedar Street #150
Santa Cruz, CA 95060
(831) 459-6301

Cafe Bene

30 Apr

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Bene is a unique spot in town because it is different from the other shops in the area. It offers an older, moderately priced, laid back atmosphere that seems far more focused on creating a space than producing top quality products. The atosmphere is “homey” to say the least; it feels like you walked into a household kitchen and your roomate is there making coffee. That being said, I error on the side of caution by saying “homey,” because some people may take that as unkempt and too laid back.

The machine is definitely the most attractive aspect of Cafe Bene. While it works as a functional centerpiece for the store, it seems better suited for a museum. The 1981 San Marcos is a three group, completely manual, totally mechanical, lever opperated machine from a much older age of coffee. As a collector’s piece (literally), it is a stunning machine. Though aging, the metal accents, manual levers, vintage knobs, and general aura of the machine are fascinating and inspiring. We have come a long way in the last 30 years.

The skills a barista must have to operate one of these machines is unparalleled; no modern machine operates in such a manner nor are these kinds of skills taught to our generation of bar operators. This method is, for all intensive purposes, obsolete. These kinds of machines are essentially “antiques.” Furthermore, the courage one must have to operate such a temperamental machine is definitely an acquired skill. They require a precise hand to operate to keep it from literally exploding.

My cap, unfortunately, left a lot to be desired. While the foam was nice and done by an ex-Lulus barista, the espresso was so incredibly dark that it was hard to taste anything other than burnt flavor and oils. They use Java Bob’s coffee and I know very little about his operation other than it is located on the Westside here in SC. He is a nice fellow, but so far I am not a fan of his coffee.  The beans Bene was using for their espresso were incredibly dark, shiny, and not very flavorful. Although the grinders were Mazzers, the hoppers had been coated with a film from what appeared to be old beans. They also looked like it had not been cleaned for quite a while. My cap was served in the right proportions, but the flavor was unpleasant so I cannot give it a good recommendation.

Atmosphere-wise, Bene holds true with the “homey” feeling with a laid back, easy going, local aesthetic. It is very “old Santa Cruz,” slow but well traveled by a few regulars. This place certainly does not take coffee “too seriously” which was both good and bad; no ego but also not a whole lot of motivation for quality. Bene is quaint and in all respects an extremely modest operation. The “cup wall” is a testament to the kind of coffee culture they aspire to represent; patrons can leave their personal dishware up on the rack and use when they come to visit.

One thing I noticed on this trip was how easily one small issue can ruin the entire process. In this case, it was choosing a poor quality bean, something so fundemental and easy to fix, that ruined the cap. By using an over-roasted, oily bean, the drink is already mired with a poor building block. I know the barista who made mydrink personally and she has solid technique. She doesed out of a good grinder on an adjusted grind, tamped it well, put it through the San Marco (I have used an older pump operated San Marco and the shots were good), and followed all the steps well. However, the final product was detracted by that single small issue, which ultimately resulted into a big one. Coffee is so tempramental, it is important to be critical at every step.

I liked:

  • The manual San Marco
  • “Cup wall”
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